By Hilary James, owner of Wardrobe at The Cross
I am a classic apple shape. I also really like eating apples. Pink Lady is my favourite, naturally, although I am partial to a Granny Smith. Apparently that surprises people. I like the sharpness. A Gala, on the other hand? No, thank you.
But we're here to talk about the shape, rather than the fruit bowl, and how to dress it so you feel really, really good.
At Wardrobe at The Cross, we try not to lean too heavily on the word “flattering”. It can carry a whiff of dressing for somebody else's approval, whether that's the male gaze or an imaginary panel deciding whether we've successfully concealed ourselves. I'm not terribly interested in that.
What I am interested in is you, our gorgeous customer, feeling fabulous in whatever you leave the shop with, or check out with online. Understanding how clothes sit on your body can help with that. Knowing which cuts, proportions and little styling tricks make you feel brilliant is useful. Somebody else's permission is unnecessary.
What does an apple shape mean when choosing clothes?
An apple shape generally means a fuller middle, with less definition between the waist and hips. Often there's a fuller bust and comparatively slender legs and a smaller bum. Not every apple has all those features, but the description fits me rather well. Good boobs, slim legs and a fairly nothingy bum. There we are.
People sometimes tell me I must be an hourglass because I have a 34EE bust. But a big bust doesn't automatically make an hourglass. I don't have that pronounced in-and-out shape. My waist is around 29 inches, or 30 on a bloated day, and I carry weight through my torso, back and stomach. I've always been that way. I am also familiar with the backwards glance in the mirror to inspect a bra line, but bras are a conversation for another day.
Apples come in different heights and dress sizes. Plenty of the women over 50 who come through our doors recognise the fuller-bust-and-tummy combination, but two women describing themselves as apple-shaped can still need quite different clothes.
Torso length makes a difference, too. I'm very high-waisted, with very little distance between the bottom of my boobs and my belly button. As the years go by, that distance seems to be disappearing altogether. It's one reason I've rather gone off bikinis. Frankly, the top meets the bottom.
An open neckline often works beautifully for me. A very high neckline can make my top half feel rather barrel-like, whereas a V-neck opens things up visually. Straight legs, skinnies, adjustable ties and wrap dresses are all useful things to try. I belt a lot, and you'll often see me tie things to the side: a little asymmetry helps me create the impression of a waist.
These are starting points, though. The aim is clothes that sit well, make you feel brilliant and let you get on with your day. Sorting the kids out, having a busy day at work, wandering around a garden centre, visiting family, sitting in the car, coming to see us, going for drinks with the girls or finding a quiet corner of the library. Your clothes shouldn't be nagging at you throughout.
Comfort is king, but the size label can naff off
If you've been getting dressed, pulling at your top and wondering why an outfit feels different, let's start with the fit.
Comfort is king. Unfortunately, somewhere along the line, “comfortable” became associated with comfy slippers, care homes and giving up on having any fun with your clothes. That's a very limited interpretation of comfort.
Although I will admit that an afternoon in a high-backed wingback chair sounds increasingly seductive. Dinner served at half past five and bed at eight? There are worse offers. I'm less convinced about endless bingo, unless we're talking Bongo's Bingo, which I'm rather fond of. The alcohol may have something to do with that.
I still want colour. I still want fabulous prints, my legs on show and a thoroughly good evening. I simply want to enjoy them without my waistband conducting a disciplinary hearing.
And that size label can just naff off. We're interested in how the clothes fit you.
Clothes to try for an apple shape
| Piece | A useful starting point | Check when you try it on |
|---|---|---|
| Tops | Open necklines and fabric that skims without billowing into a tent | Room across the bust and through the hem, with nothing catching on your middle |
| Jeans and trousers | A comfortable waistband and a leg shape you enjoy | Sit, bend and squat; check the rise and crotch depth as well as the waist |
| Dresses | Wrap shapes or adjustable waist details, with a neckline you love | Where the seam or tie sits; try tying to the side for a little asymmetry |
| Jackets and layers | Open, edge-to-edge fronts over a comfortable base | Space through the shoulders and upper arms; experiment with cardigan buttons to suggest a waist |
With a cardigan, one of my little tricks is to undo the top two buttons and the bottom two, leaving the middle fastened. Depending on the cut, that can give me the suggestion of a waist without needing to belt it.
Tops for an apple shape that give you room
V-necks, scoop necks, boat necks and square necks can all give an outfit a lovely sense of openness around the face and chest. Try them and see which you enjoy.
If you have big boobs, check the depth of the neckline and make sure the fabric isn't pulling across your bust. Then lean forward. We don't necessarily want the Grand Canyon appearing, or Phil Mitchell and his brother making an unscheduled entrance. I do the leaning-over check in a mirror. My daughters will tell me if I've missed anything. They are very public-spirited like that.
Jola V-Neck Knit Pullover — Douglas Green
Pure wool · V-neck · Douglas Green
See the product page for current sizes and availability.
For a simple autumn outfit, have a look at the My Essential Wardrobe Jola V-Neck Knit Pullover in Douglas Green. The fabrication is exquisite, and that deep green is a beautiful, rather enviable shade. With dark denim, it would look gorgeous.
Start untucked and see where it sits. My preference would be a half tuck rather than a full tuck, so the hem catches me at the right point. I don't necessarily want to cover my bum, and I certainly don't want to hide all of my legs. If your legs are a feature you love, let them have their moment.
If a straight hem never seems to finish where you want it, lean into an asymmetric knit. We love one here.
Y London Asymmetric Knit — Camel
One size · Asymmetric hem
See the product page for current sizes and availability.
The Y London Asymmetric Knit comes into its own with that beautifully asymmetric hemline, one side deliberately falling longer. I'm particularly drawn to the camel for this season. It drapes beautifully and can be arranged in all sorts of ways: off one shoulder, into more of a Bardot neckline, or even turned upside down for a completely off-the-shoulder look.
Because there's more volume on the top half, I'd pair it with a straight leg or, for a slimmer contrast, our Maya Toxik3 skinny jeans. Let those lovely slender legs do the talking. Keep the knit's hem loose so you can appreciate its shape.
It's sold in one size, and in our experience works beautifully across roughly UK sizes 8–16, with a different amount of drape depending on your shape. Ask us if you'd like help judging the fit. It's one of those pieces that earns its place in a wardrobe.
Jeans and trousers that feel comfortable at the waist
For an apple-shaped figure, I'd think about the waistband before almost anything else. If your tummy is proportionately fuller than your legs or bum, fitting that middle comfortably is often the tricky part.
When you try jeans on, squat down. Bend over. Sit down. Live a little in them. Jeans that you can only stand up in are of limited use unless your diary consists entirely of standing about.
If the waist digs in, try a different rise or cut. Ask Sue or me. A different size might help, but sometimes it's the shape of the jean that needs changing.
A high waist can feel wonderfully secure. Lots of our Toxik3 jeans have a lovely high waist, which I enjoy because my own waist sits high. Some women prefer a mid-rise, particularly with a shorter torso. This is why trying the proportions on your own body matters more than following a blanket rule.
And elasticated doesn't automatically mean comfortable. You still need enough room in the band. Just because it stretches doesn't mean you should have to wear it at the absolute limit of its goodwill.
Betty B Straight Stretch Jean — Black
Pull-on waistband · Straight leg
See the product page for current sizes and availability.
Our Betty B Straight Stretch Jean in Black is a brilliant option. You can think of it as a jean or a trouser; it has that smart, easy versatility. Betty Basics, which we shorten to Betty B, is an Australian brand, and one thing we really like about this particular style is that it isn't excessively long. We often have to watch the leg lengths when buying from Scandinavian brands, so finding a useful length is always welcome.
There are no working buttons or zip to negotiate, just a deep pull-on waistband and a false fly. Now, if “pull-on” has immediately put you back in that wingback chair, hold that thought. These are sophisticated, gorgeous trousers with a straight leg and stretch in the fabric. Ease and style are quite capable of being friends.
I'd wear them with the camel asymmetric knit, or another colour in the same shape, and the Nomad boots from EMU. Another pair of EMU boots would work, or the great black boots you already own. In summer, try sandals. Check the length on you, of course, but this isn't a style I find endlessly trailing around my feet.
Wide-leg trousers can be lovely on an apple shape, too. The width through the leg can balance a fuller middle. Look for a smooth front and enough room through the seat, then check the length with the shoes you actually intend to wear. Bring them in, or ring us and tell us what you're planning.
If the waist fits but there's far more fabric around your hips than you want, compare another cut. You might try the Betty B alongside the Toxik3 Rowan or Toxik3 Alder, for example. Use the fit guides on their product pages, and ask us if you're unsure. Finding the right cut can save an awful lot of changing-room negotiations.
Dresses for an apple shape with shape where you want it
Dresses can take a little more experimenting when you carry your fullness through the middle. We want room where we need it and shape where we enjoy it, without anything pulling or pinching.
Wrap dresses are lovely for this, as are dresses that tie at the side. An adjustable tie lets you play with the proportions and suggest a waist. I usually move the tie to one side for that little bit of asymmetry.
An empire seam can work beautifully, but it needs to sit underneath your bust. If it cuts across your boobs, it's in the wrong place for your proportions, and it can feel thoroughly uncomfortable. Don't settle for a seam that's arguing with your anatomy.
Y London Ibsen Dress — Pucci Print
V-neck · Self-tie waist · Maxi length
See the product page for current sizes and availability.
The Y London Ibsen Dress in Pucci Print is a gorgeous option, with a V-neck, flowing viscose and a self-tie waist. I'm perimenopausal, so fabric that feels light and comfortable is very much on my agenda. I enjoy the airy feel of this one.
I wear it without the tie as a relaxed, beachy layer, or add the tie for an evening out. A word about length: I'm around five foot three, and it's floor-length on me. Please bear that in mind, and ask me if you want to talk it through before buying.
In winter, I wear it with knee-high black boots. A black headband or jet-black earrings can pick up the boots beautifully. It's a really lovely, considered look without requiring an afternoon of outfit planning.
If you have a fuller bust, check dresses from the side as well as the front. The fabric can lift at the front, leaving the front hem higher than the back. Sometimes a dipped-back effect looks lovely; sometimes it tells you that the dress needs more room through the bust. It's worth checking which is happening.
Walk, sit down and look from a few angles. We have lovely big mirrors in the shop, and Sue and I are there to help you work these things out.
Open layers for easy apple shape outfits
An open jacket, cardigan or kimono is such a useful layer. Anything edge-to-edge can bring an outfit together without asking you to fasten something else across the middle.
One Hundred Stars Rhodoleia Gold Kimono Jacket
Open front · Three-quarter sleeves · One size
See the product page for current sizes and availability.
The One Hundred Stars Rhodoleia Gold Kimono Jacket is a beautiful example. I'd wear it open over a camisole, perhaps one of our Black Colour camisoles with that lovely stretchy lace edge, which allows me to wear a proper bra underneath. Add the Betty B black trousers and you've got a gorgeous outfit.
The kimono has an open front, three-quarter-length sleeves and fluid fabric that feels lovely to wear. The coral and pink flowers against the gold are just beautiful.
It's a one-size piece with a listed nape-to-hem measurement of 58 cm. On me, it finishes around my hip joint. Lay out a favourite jacket or kimono-style layer and compare the length to get a feel for where it might finish on you.
We're not trying to tie you to a measuring tape, but measuring something you already love can be surprisingly helpful. Better still, if you're coming into the shop, bring it with you. Bring the trousers you want a layer for, or the top you want to show off. It's much easier to help you put an outfit together when we've got the actual pieces in front of us.
Should you tuck in your top or wear a belt?
Try both. And remember, “tuck it in” doesn't have to mean feeding an entire jumper into your waistband.
You could try what I call a waterfall tuck: a little fabric tucked in at the front, with the rest falling loosely and floating out at the back. A small front or French tuck can work beautifully, too. Experiment with how much you tuck and where, then ease the fabric out until it sits comfortably.
Check the side view. If the tuck creates bulky folds across your tummy, leave the top loose or try a shorter hem.
This is where a boxy shape can be useful. I've heard people say boxy cuts don't suit apple shapes, and I disagree. So much depends on where the hem finishes. A boxy blouse that ends at the right point can break up the outline of a fuller middle beautifully. Try it before ruling it out.
As for belts, I use our Moda snaffle belts a lot to give myself waist definition. Start around where you think your natural waist sits, then move the belt a little higher or lower. Keep it comfortable and look at what it does to the whole outfit.
Sue often belts higher, closer to an empire line beneath her bust. She's tiny, and she finds that a belt across her exact middle can cut her off visually. That higher placement works beautifully for her.
It doesn't work in quite the same way for me. Sue already has that natural inward curve at her waist, whereas I'm using the belt to suggest one. Same accessory, different bodies, different placement. This is why we play about with things.
Three outfits to put together
An everyday outfit with jeans
Try the camel asymmetric knit with the Betty B black straight-leg jeans and a chunky trainer or boot. In summer, switch to a sandal. Leave the asymmetric hem loose so you can see its lovely shape, then finish with a bag you love. One of our Y London leather bags would be beautiful here.
An outfit for lunch with the girls
The Douglas Green Jola with dark denim is a lovely place to start. I'd try the Maya Toxik3 skinny jeans: their slim shape works beautifully with the knit. Straight-leg trousers are another option if that's your preference.
Try the jumper untucked, half tucked or with just a small front tuck. See where it sits best on you. The mirror gets a vote; an arbitrary rule about tucking does not.
Something a little dressier
Wear the Rhodoleia Gold Kimono over a plain cami and beautiful black trousers, such as the Nümph trousers in Caviar, with shoes you can happily walk in.
If you'd prefer a dress, try the Ibsen with its tie relaxed. Remember that it's long on me, so give me a call on +44 7598 823548 if you'd like to discuss the length before buying. I'd much rather help you work it out.
A few questions about dressing an apple shape after 50
What can I wear if I prefer more coverage over my tummy?
Try a top that falls freely from the bust with enough width through the hem. An asymmetric knit, curved hem or dipped-back hem can work beautifully.
Check the amount of fabric, though. Skimming is lovely; so much volume that you feel you're wearing a tent may not give you the shape you wanted. Sit down as well as standing up, and see how it falls.
Can an apple shape wear skinny jeans?
Yes. And let's be really clear: anybody can wear anything. We're looking for what makes you feel the best version of you, whether you're walking into a room or sitting happily at home. Your opinion matters here.
If you love the shape of your legs, skinnies are a lovely way to show them off. Just give the waistband the same attention you would with any other jean. You need to be able to breathe, eat your sandwiches, have a biscuit and enjoy a glass of wine without negotiating with a button.
Flares are an option, too. I like a gentle flare, such as the Toxik3 Rowan, because the shape through the lower leg can balance a fuller tummy. You have far more options than one supposedly “correct” pair of jeans.
What works for a petite apple shape?
Pay attention to proportions: the length of your top, the trouser rise and where a dress waist seam sits. Not everything is cut for a shorter frame, and a seam that lands too high or too low can change how the whole outfit feels.
A very long top or a deep waistband can take up more of a short torso than you want. Try another length or rise before deciding a whole style is off limits.
I also like using related colours from top to bottom. A pale blue asymmetric knit with inky navy Toxik3 jeans gives you two shades of blue and a lovely sense of continuity through the outfit. That can create a longer-looking line, while the asymmetry adds shape and interest.
Do I need to avoid prints and bright colours?
Good heavens, no. Unless you've got a uniform to contend with, and even then I'd be looking for opportunities. I was going to say vicars and nuns might have fewer options, but I suspect even they could teach us a thing or two.
Wear what you enjoy. Try the print. Try the bright colour. I'm around five foot three, consider myself fairly small, and wear plenty of colour and large-scale prints. A printed dress or one of the beautiful One Hundred Stars kimonos can be a joy.
Some smaller women prefer a smaller-scale print. Sue, who is around five foot, often does. I don't necessarily share that preference. Neither of us is wrong. Try things on and see what makes you smile.
Let us help you find a comfortable fit
If you're unsure, tell Sue or me your usual size, your height and what tends to feel wrong. Does the bust pull? Does the waistband dig in? Does the top keep riding up? Those details help us give you useful advice.
Email us through our contact page, or call or WhatsApp me on +44 7598 823548. If you're coming into the shop, bring the pieces you'd like to wear together. We'll do our very best to help you find something that feels like you.
Browse our tops, jeans and dresses, or find out about styling with Sue.
Hil x
Wardrobe at The Cross
